Home Loan Eligibility Calculator

A regular Home Loan EMI calculator starts from the loan amount and computes the monthly EMI. This calculator starts from the home price you're actually considering and shows you the loan amount, the required down payment, the resulting EMI, and crucially whether the down-payment percentage you have in mind meets RBI's LTV cap for that price band. It's the right tool when you're deciding what home to buy, not when you already know the loan amount you need.

LTV is the loan amount divided by the property's sanction value, expressed as a percentage. A 75% LTV means the bank is lending 75% of the property value and you're putting 25% as down payment. RBI caps LTV to ensure borrowers have material skin in the game, which historically reduces default rates and limits systemic risk if property prices fall. The caps are graduated by property value: more expensive properties have lower LTV caps because they're more correlated with speculative buying.

For properties up to ₹30 lakh, the maximum LTV is 90% (minimum down payment 10%). For properties between ₹30 lakh and ₹75 lakh, the cap is 80% (minimum 20% down). For properties above ₹75 lakh, the cap is 75% (minimum 25% down). These apply to regulated banks across the board. NBFCs sometimes offer slightly looser terms but at a rate premium.

Not from a regulated bank for the home loan itself. What's sometimes done in practice is a "top-up" — after taking the maximum permitted home loan, you take a separate unsecured personal loan or loan-against-property for the gap. The rate on the top-up is materially higher (personal loan rates are 10–14% vs home loan rates near 8–9%), and you also need separate eligibility against the second loan. Most financial advisors recommend either picking a less expensive home or saving for a larger down payment rather than stacking loans.

This calculator does not factor in your income — it answers the regulatory question (what LTV is permitted) and shows the EMI for the maximum permitted loan. Banks separately apply an EMI-to-income test, typically 40–50% of net monthly income, which becomes the binding constraint for many borrowers. As a rule of thumb, your gross annual income should be at least 4× the loan amount you want, though banks consider net monthly income, existing EMIs, dependents, employment stability, and credit score together.

Stamp duty and registration (5–8% of property value depending on state), GST on under-construction property (1% affordable / 5% standard), processing fee (0.25–1% of loan), legal and valuation fees, brokerage, and interiors are all paid separately by the buyer. Budget at least 10% of property value on top of your LTV down payment for these. They explain why "20% down" feels more like 30% in practice.

Not necessarily. Borrowing the maximum makes sense when (1) you can comfortably absorb the EMI plus a 1–2% rate-rise stress test, (2) your existing investments earn more after-tax than the home loan rate (so deploying them as down payment would lose you that spread), and (3) you value cashflow flexibility for emergencies. Borrowing less makes sense when EMI-to-income is tight, when you have idle cash earning less than the loan rate, or when you want to be debt-free quickly to free up cashflow for other goals.